Ok, so, as I did for the last fashion weeks, I decided to make a review of my favourite looks from the brands that I liked the most. Of course, the brands were a whole lot, so, to not make this masterpost longer than eternity itself I only chose two looks from menswear and womenswear, as tough as it sounds.
Alexander Wang: girl meets Matrix. I loved this collection the most not only because leather and black are my favourite things, let alone put together, but because of how fierce the models were and all the looks were awesome, I really had a hard time choosing only four. Models stormed the runway in 1980s sharp suiting, spiky stilettos and bodycon leather, all worn with ultra-sheer hosiery. The palette was mostly monochrome, with an injection of hot pink. Wang’s signature sportswear was given a Matrix edge with small sunglasses. I just loved it. This new CEO vibes Wang has as a mission is going somewhere..
Anna Sui: so beautiful, all of it. I loved the flowers, the looks even gave me The Virgin Suicides outfits vibes. Sui’s overall aesthetic is so distinct, its visual euphoria so specific, that she doesn’t get sufficient credit for being a designer of range. Deconstruct the pilings and Sui makes some terrific clothes — parkas, peacoats, dresses, sweaters, and yes, even sexy numbers suitable for the aforementioned siren. As for her thematic inclinations, we know Sui loves a flower-power vibe. But here, she dabbled with so much more, all delightful. I just loved it.
Badgley Mischka: designers Mark Badgley and James Mischka used their Fall collection to lean into technology. But the collection itself avoided veering into any tech-meets-fashion clichés. Citing the works of Caravaggio as a starting point, the pair delivered a collection rooted in the traditions of American design, but delivered in sumptuous fabrics with old-world appeal. Keeping the color palette vibrant, they began with a red sequined overcoat on the lithe form of Alicia Burke. They elevated the familiar black-and-red check pattern by adding a touch of glitz. Diving almost immediately into eveningwear, they showcased their speciality—powerhouse gowns that demand attention—by presenting a series of gala-ready looks covered in embellishment. There were swaths of tulle covered in silk petals and crystal adornments galore.
Brandon Maxwell: Maxwell went for a more relaxed take on what remains his unapologetic embrace of traditional glamour. His customer is a high-polish kind of gal; she’s never undone, and he refuses to fake false edge for the runway. To that end, last season’s jeans proved a hit so they’re back for fall, but worn with perfectly constructed tops such as a cutaway jacket with defined shoulders. He also showed a broadened range of curvy knits, while sexy bodycon dresses bridged the span from day to night.
Calvin Klein: one of my all-time favourites. Clothes were inspired by ‘heroes’, from firefighters (with models wrapped in fluro jackets), to the American west pioneers, shown in a delicate prairie-style dress. Intarsia knitwear with motifs of iconic cartoon characters Road Runner and Wile E. Coyote featured. Fabrics, as always with Simons, were evolved: voluminous lumberjack checks appeared as a slip dress, while American quilts were sewn into floor-length gowns.
Coach: this season, Stuart Vever’s Coach prairie girl had a darker side, with an attitude to match. The mood was dark romance: the Coachella girl in winter. Vevers took inspiration from the American west. Details included ‘found’ objects, and trinkets which dangled from denim jackets. Thorny rose and bandana prints decorated dresses. Evident, too, was how Vevers had upped his craft ante with hoodies dripping in leather, and dresses cut from multiple fabrics and inset with lace and trimmings.
Cushnie Et Ochs: personally one of my favourites EVER. The show opened with a white feather-trimmed dress with slivers cut out at the shoulder, hip and up the leg. A mauve satin blouse draped into a deep-V and tucked into matching wide-leg pants was covered up but impossibly seductive. There were pops of fuchsia, shiny silver, black and gold all worked on monochromatic looks that made the women look like statues of sensuality — strong but soft enough they didn’t look cut from stone.
Derek Lam: For fall he took on both the traditional and wild side of horse culture, mixing well-bred equestrianism with the ranch and processing it with modernist refinement.There were luscious double-face ponchos with sporty zip-up turtleneck and leather yokes, a polished riff on jockey shirts in black satin with a graphic chevron pattern over tailored trousers with racing stripes down the side, a cognac double-face gabardine cape over a quilted satin pencil skirt, and gorgeous tailored houndstooth jackets. Knee-high Western riding boots, bucket bags big enough to feed a stallion from, and dresses and coats done with abstract horse silhouettes hammered the theme home.
Hugo Boss: the iconic American sport, baseball, manifested itself throughout his lineup in everything from suede shirt jackets and padded pants to baseball stitching in sweaters and bombers. It was even evident in allover graphic on a colorful poncho.But the bulk of the collection still centered around the brand’s bread and butter: tailored clothing.
Philipp Plein: girls were clad in skin-tight catsuits and bodysuits encrusted with crystals or cut with latex, oversize puffers with lots of flyaway logo straps, colorfully dyed fur coats and metallic crop tops for party nights out. On a rainy Saturday night, the clear plastic coats seemed like a kitschy way to stay dry while still flaunting your style. The boys donned spacesuit puffers, tougher pieces like studded biker jackets and latex trousers, along with sporty hoodies and backpacks created via a collaboration with Playboy, available beginning today at the Plein’s Mercer Street pop-up shop. Another one of my favourites ever.
Ralph Lauren: personally reminded me of Tommy Hilfiger but I’m not complaining. There was much to admire in the way Lauren seamlessly integrated so diverse an assortment of good-looking clothes, day to night, evening to beach to boat, women and men. But the collection suffered from overstatement. Placing a huge ocean-liner graphic front-and-center on a jacket makes for demonstrative fun; doing it repeatedly lessens the impact.
Tom Ford: the inspiration behind Tom Ford’s AW18 show was the 1980s: metallics, leopard print and patchwork animal- print leggings, worn with oversized leather jackets. Leopard print dominated, headlining in pops of acid brights from a green tailored suit, to purple and yellow mini shift dresses. Luxurious shearling and intricately cut coats decorated with jewelled buttons appeared throughout.
Victoria Beckham: simple silk dresses, asymmetrically pleated, were interspersed with more complex silhouettes of multi-layers and textures, drawn in at the waist and exaggerated at the shoulders. The standout pieces were the faux fur prints and an ultra-luxe-looking leopard-print coat. I loved the suits. I love that suits for women are starting to be a more common thing.
Last but not less, Zimmermann: the floral patterns, rendered in a sophisticated tonal scale of natural, chic shades, added to the feminine appeal of the collection, but Zimmermann didn’t overindulge with sugar. She smartly introduced sartorial fabrics with a mannish feel — including a plaid wool she used for a cape-like top matched with pleated pants tucked into over-the-knee length boots — and simple, pure silhouettes, such as a tunic dress simply worn with a hat, its ribbon tie wrapped around the shoulders.
Ok guys I know its long as fuck but it took me a lot to make these collages, I needed some help for the description but well, still it was my whole hard ass work so I hope you enjoy it as much as I did. Which ones were your favourite shows?! Let me know! Xo